The West Highland Way: A Complete Stage-by-Stage Guide

Scotland’s first and most famous long-distance trail runs 96 miles from Milngavie, just north of Glasgow, to Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis. Most people walk it in seven or eight days. Here’s everything you need to plan it properly, stage by stage.

What is the West Highland Way?

The West Highland Way opened in 1980 as Scotland’s first official long-distance footpath. It runs 96 miles (154 km) from Milngavie to Fort William, tracing the edge of Loch Lomond, crossing Rannoch Moor, and finishing in the shadow of Ben Nevis. It’s a waymarked trail with a clear thistle symbol at every junction, which is part of why it’s such a popular first long-distance walk.

How long is the West Highland Way, and how long does it take?

The trail is 96 miles (154 km) point to point. Most walkers complete it in seven or eight days, averaging 12 to 15 miles a day. Fitter walkers with lighter packs can do it in five or six days. If you want a more relaxed pace with rest days built in, ten days is comfortable.

There’s no one “right” schedule. The standard eight-stage breakdown below is the most common pattern because it splits the distance into manageable days and lines up with where the accommodation sits.

The 8 stages of the West Highland Way

Stage 1: Milngavie to Drymen — 12 miles A gentle start through Mugdock Wood and farmland. Good for easing into the trail and testing your pack before the terrain gets harder.

Stage 2: Drymen to Rowardennan — 15 miles Includes the climb up Conic Hill, with your first proper views over Loch Lomond. From the top you can see the Highland Boundary Fault running straight through the loch’s islands.

Stage 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan — 14 miles The toughest day on paper. This stretch hugs the loch shore on a narrow, rooty, up-and-down path. Beautiful, but it’s slower going than the mileage suggests.

Stage 4: Inverarnan to Tyndrum — 12 miles Easier underfoot, following old drove roads and a disused railway line past Crianlarich. This is where the scenery shifts from woodland to open Highland glen.

Stage 5: Tyndrum to Kingshouse — 19 miles The longest stage, crossing the vast, empty expanse of Rannoch Moor. There’s no accommodation to break it up, so it’s a full day with no shortcuts. Also one of the most dramatic.

Stage 6: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven — 9 miles Short in distance but includes the Devil’s Staircase, the trail’s highest point at 548m. The climb is steep but the views back over Glencoe are worth every step.

Stage 7: Kinlochleven to Fort William — 15 miles The final push, climbing out of Kinlochleven before a long, often anticlimactic forestry track into Fort William. Many walkers find this stage mentally tougher than it looks on the map.

Some itineraries split stages 5 and 7 further to keep daily mileage under 12-13 miles, which is worth considering if you’re not used to consecutive long walking days.

How difficult is the West Highland Way?

The West Highland Way is graded moderate. The path is well maintained and clearly marked throughout, and there’s no scrambling or technical terrain. That said, don’t underestimate it: the daily distances add up, Rannoch Moor and the Devil’s Staircase both demand proper fitness, and Scottish weather can turn a straightforward day into a hard one with no warning.

You don’t need mountain experience to walk it, but you do need to be able to comfortably walk 12-15 miles a day, several days in a row, carrying a pack.

When is the best time to walk it?

Late spring (May) and early autumn (September) are generally considered the best windows. You get long daylight hours, reasonable weather odds, and you avoid both the peak summer crowds and the worst of the midges.

June to August brings the most daylight and the busiest trail, along with the highest midge activity, especially in still, damp conditions near the lochs. Winter walking is possible but requires serious experience and kit, since you’re dealing with short daylight hours, ice, and the possibility of snow on the higher sections.

Where do you stay along the way?

Accommodation runs the full range: wild camping, campsites, bothies, hostels, B&Bs, and hotels. Most walkers book ahead, especially in peak season, since options get genuinely scarce along some stretches.

A lot of people use a luggage transfer service, where your main bag is driven ahead to your next stop each day and you walk with just a daypack. It’s not essential, but it makes a real difference on the longer stages.

What should you pack?

The non-negotiables: broken-in waterproof boots, a proper waterproof jacket, moisture-wicking base layers, a warm mid layer, and a daypack if you’re using luggage transfer (or a full pack if you’re carrying everything). Trekking poles are worth it, particularly for the descent into Kinlochleven and the final stretch into Fort William when your legs are tired.

Pack for all four seasons regardless of when you go. Scottish Highland weather changes fast, and what starts as a warm, clear morning can turn wet and cold by lunchtime.

Practical things to know

Midges. Most active in still, damp conditions, typically June to August, worst near lochs and in the evening. Long sleeves and a good repellent go a long way.

Ticks. Present in the Highlands and can carry Lyme disease. Risk is low if you check yourself daily and remove any ticks promptly.

Wild camping. Legal and widely practised under Scotland’s Outdoor Access Code, which gives walkers some of the most generous camping rights in the world. Camp responsibly: away from roads and buildings, leave no trace, and move on after one or two nights.

Dogs. Allowed on the trail itself, though check with individual B&Bs and hotels in advance since not all accommodation can take them.

Tipping. Not obligatory, but 10-15% in restaurants is normal if you’re happy with the service.

How do you get to the start and back from the finish?

Milngavie is a short train ride from Glasgow city centre, making the start easy to reach without a car. Fort William has train and bus links back to Glasgow, so you don’t need to arrange a car shuffle or pickup at either end.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need to be an experienced hiker to walk the West Highland Way? No. It’s a good first long-distance trail for a fit, reasonably prepared walker. Some practice hikes with a loaded pack beforehand will make a real difference.

Can I walk it alone? Yes, plenty of people do. The trail is well walked and well signed, and support services (luggage transfer, accommodation booking) are widely available if you want them.

Which direction should I walk it? South to north, Milngavie to Fort William, is the standard and recommended direction. It saves the biggest payoff (Glencoe, the Devil’s Staircase, Ben Nevis) for the end.

Do I need to book accommodation in advance? Strongly recommended, especially May to September. Some stretches have very limited accommodation, and popular spots book out weeks ahead in peak season.

Planning your own route? Cairnova’s Trail Intelligence Map covers elevation data and GPX export for routes across Scotland, so you can see exactly what you’re walking into before you set off.